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Expedition 24
at Old St. Stephens, Alabama
2002

 

The University of Alabama Museum of Natural History Expedition 24 was held June 9 through July 6, 2002 at Old St. Stephens

Old newspaper articles, hand drawn maps revealing buried treasures, owls, bats, scorpions, and snakes. Before our arrival, the area was covered in a tangle of vines and jungle-like underbrush. It would appear to be a scene right out of an Indiana Jones movie. Instead, the setting is in Washington County, Alabama at Old St. Stephens - the state territorial capital (1817 - 1819) and the site for the Archeology Camp lead by the University of Alabama Museum of Natural History.

The Museum hosted the 24th annual Expedition field camp from June 9 to July 6, 2002. Nearly 70 participants, eleven staff and dozens of volunteers worked to uncover the secrets hidden beneath the surface of the ground in an area that archaeologists believe to be the location of the Globe Hotel. Before serving as the territorial capital, this key historical and archeological site thrived as a Spanish fort, an American fort and a Choctaw Indian trading post.

Once a busy town with a population of several thousand and bustling with business and commerce, the area has since become overgrown by wilderness. At first glance, only an old road-bed, and a few bricks scattered here and there give any indication that a frontier town was once located near the Hobuckintopa Bluffs of the Tombigbee River.

There are very few records that account for the activities that took place at St. Stephens from its beginning in the early 1800's to its decline in the late 1820's. Our goal for this project is to gather information. According to George Shorter, field archaeologist for the Expedition, "Sometimes the absence of specimens tells us more about the activities that took place than random artifacts can reveal. For instance if we are excavating a structure and we don't find broken ceramics, personal items and the like, then there is a possibility that the structure was never occupied as a dwelling." Much of the work we were doing would help to support George's theories and eliminate the possibilities of what something 'might' have been.

Until now, there was only speculation about where the buildings were located and how they might appear. After four weeks of field research, we are able to confirm that a significant structure, possibly two stories in height, built with the finest materials of the day, was once located on the lot. It had a brick patio laid in a herringbone pattern, columns on the front and two doors leading into the entrance. The glass windows were of the best quality, the walls were made of plaster and the rooms were painted. The fine china was made in England and shipped in from Mobile. Other evidence leads us to believe that there are two more structures that were located behind the building and they were occupied up until the 1840's.

Walking through the woods along what would have been High Street, the main avenue of commerce in St. Stephens about 185 years ago, one can see the remnants of the past exposed on the dirt surface. Pieces of broken ceramics, glass, bricks, nails and other hardware have made their way to the surface during the four weeks as participants kicked up the dirt while walking from camp to the archaeology site. "Its great to have life back in that old town," said the park director and sixth generation descendent of St. Stephens, Jim Long. "Its been a long time since there were people living on that ridge above the river."

The road was once lined with hotels, taverns, stores, businesses, schools, a bank and even a newspaper. About a mile outside of town there was horseracing track called the Pebble Spring Jockey Club. The frontier town boasted a population of nearly 3,000 during its boom around 1819, but interestingly enough there was not a single church among the structures. However, there was a theater where church services were occasionally held.

Long tells a story about a circuit rider preacher, Lorenzo Dow, who came to the area in the early 1800's to preach Christianity to the 'heathens' but he apparently was not very well received. As the story goes, the rowdy townspeople became fed up with his preaching and they tarred and feathered him and pushed him out on a log raft to float down the Tombigbee River. According to the legend, Dow cursed the town and said, "Bats and owls will inhabit the city and pestilence will soon drive the people from this place." Whether Dow's curse took hold or not, no one knows, but St. Stephens did dry up and now nearly 200 years later it's a ghost town with hardly even a trace of where the buildings once stood.

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